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I left the S-Bahn (Suburban railway) station of Neckerhausen, near Heidelberg
in Baden-Wurtenberg, Germany, and headed north-west into the woods. I stripped
naked as soon as I entered the trees, and placed my clothes in my rucksack. I
was only wearing sandals and socks as I began walking up the gentle track in
the shaded but warm forest air of mid-September. The sound of furious wood
chopping emanated from the trees ahead of me, and the road was busy with
driving cars behind me down near the river in the valley below. I headed first
left, then right and up a long even slope, the tracks clearly cut for forestry
work.
As I steadily gained height, the natural forest noises took over. Occassional
twitterings, and 'oohoo's, interspersed by the sound of something hard dropping
through the trees from a great height and into the dry leaves of the forest
floor - acorns being shelled by a squirrel, perhaps. Outside of the steady
pace of my sandals over the soft trail, and the close sound of my light
breathing, silence reigned.
I passed a small spring, dug into the dark steep bank of the forest on my
right, lined with large stones. Quietly sitting, nearly obscured by the
luxuriant foliage around, nearly forgotten up here amongst the trees, it was
like a distant memory of when such things were an essential part of the daily
existence of everybody. The water ran sweetly out along a thick stone lip, and
fell directly in a single thin cord to the moist forest bed below. This was
the only water I saw all day long, and was a welcome respite when I returned
this way later in the day.
I continued along the gentle slope, up and around the contouring track, past
myriad trees where the sun shone, through the high foliage above, to illuminate
the dark forest floor. Seemingly, for a single moment, for my benefit alone.
As I gained height, hoof prints appeared along the middle of the track, in the
soft raised grassy area between the twin hard lines of the forestry road, signs
of horse-riding, but no horses and no riders to be seen the whole day long.
Some bugs buzzed me sufficiently to make me stop and apply Autan, (mosquito
repellant), liquid liberally all over my exposed body.
Forestry had been hard at work, felling trees, and as the track arrived at the
ridge above, the view opened out to wide vistas of rounded forest clad hills to
the north and east across the valley, as far as the eye could see. A far away
town nestled amongst the thick almost carpet-like pile of forest canopy in the
distance. I kept walking until I reached the Wolfsgrube, a col in the woods,
where several roads and tracks met briefly before going their various ways once
more. I continued for another half an hour or so along the ridge, northwards,
before deciding, after several hours walking, that I should return reluctantly
to town for dinner. Although I had been walking the Heidelberg woods on
several occassions, and found them to be generally fairly quiet places, this
was the very quietest walk of all. I met a single solitary person during the
entire walk. It's definitely a place to earmark for naked hikes.
The route back was quicker, as I took fewer photographs and I knew the route,
it was mostly downhill too. Of course I reached the train station at
Neckarhausen, just a minute or so after my train to Heidelberg had already
departed, but it was warm and pleasant as I sat in the shelter, dressed now of
course, awaiting the next train. The walk had been a pleasant amble along
forestry tracks most of the way, and I was sufficiently tired to fully
appreciate my evening meal accompanied by a fruit-juice schorle, (juice mixed
with fizzy water), and a beer.
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